Thursday, April 25, 2013

Culinary Adventure: True Food Kitchen


To me, True Food Kitchen is the quintessential California restaurant: organic, farm to table, and mostly good for you. I first discovered True Food Kitchen while on vacation in Santa Monica.  After strolling through blocks of shopping we ended up at Santa Monica Place, a three-story, open air, shopping mall in the heart of Santa Monica. True Food Kitchen, one of several meal options, drew us in with its fresh juices and obvious popularity – the wait for brunch was pushing 2 hours! Our next encounter was on our way to Huntington Beach for a long weekend. This time we knew what to expect and we were not disappointed. It was at this point that we began daydreaming about what it would be like to have a place like this located in our neck of Southern California.  That dream became a reality in the Summer of 2012 when our Fashion Valley Mall got a True Food Kitchen of its very own.

True Food Kitchen employs an airy design concept.  The ceilings are high, the interior is spacious; as is their breezy patio.  The light wood, white and grass green color scheme makes you feel instantly relaxed and at peace. The main focal point of any True Food Kitchen is their large bar, which is typically situated in the center of the restaurant. With its butcher-block counter and lime green bar stools the bar provides a front row seat to see how all their wonderful juice drinks are created. If you have ever witnessed a fresh juice drink being made, you know it is a fascinating process. I love watching as employees toss whole apples, cucumbers and celery into massive juicers only to be rewarded by a small trickle of juice. My favorite drink is the Hangover RX. It has coconut water, honeydew melon and pineapple. I would estimate that at least 2-3 small honeydews are thrown into the juicer along with a whole pineapple to make my one little drink. It is served with a pineapple frond stuck in it. It is delicately sweet and very refreshing. There are a wide variety of juices to choose from, some heartier than others. I would start with the less intimidating juices (the Cucumber Refresher - cucumber and honey lemonade) and work your way up to the more hardcore drinks (the Kale Aid - kale, apple, cucumber, celery, lemon and ginger). It takes true perseverance to consume, but the health benefits are undeniable.


Since its opening I have been a frequent visitor to this culinary oasis in a sea of retail.  Each visit has been delightful and different as their menu changes seasonally.  On one of our first visits we arrived just in time to take advantage of their breakfast/brunch menu. I decided on the two organic eggs (scrambled egg whites), which were served with turkey bacon and sweet potato hash. I also ordered a side of avocado. The eggs were fluffy and perfectly cooked. They went wonderfully with the avocado. I added a bit of tomatillo salsa on top, which gave the dish a spicy kick that was tempered by the avocado. Turkey bacon is not to be confused with standard bacon. It has a similar color and a similar shape, but that is pretty much where the similarities end. The texture is much chewier than your typical bacon, more like beef jerky. The flavoring is bacon-ish but you are never fooled into thinking that this is the real deal. Like many substitutes, if you really want the real thing, order the real thing, but if you are looking for a reasonable substitute, than turkey bacon will suit you just fine. The sweet potato hash is definitely not to be missed – the seasoned sautéed sweet potato cubes tossed with diced onions provided a sweet opposition to the salty turkey bacon.  I left feeling full, not over stuffed, like I had done something good for my body as well as my stomach.

Never one to rest on my laurels, I also visited True Food during dinnertime, to get the full menu experience. I started out with my traditional Hangover RX, which never disappoints. I then ordered the Miso Soup, which had mushrooms and scallions in addition to the traditional tofu.  With only a few exceptions, each dish is prepared from scratch in their enormous, open, stainless steel kitchen. If you don't like scallions in your miso soup, just let your server know, and your bowl of miso will be scallion free.  For my main meal I ordered the Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, which was served in a roasted corn broth with spinach, oven dried tomatoes and oyster mushrooms. It was nothing short of phenomenal. The corn broth was sweet and juxtaposed nicely with the savory ricotta filled raviolis. The oven-dried tomatoes were bursting with flavor and the oyster mushrooms absorbed all of the delicious corn broth. There is a slight tanginess to the whole dish, which leaves a pleasant tingle on your tongue. The freshness of the ingredients was really clear; the corn pops with each bite, the tomatoes burst and the raviolis explode with fresh ricotta. You would expect a meal consisting of raviolis and corn broth to sit heavy in your stomach but the entire dish is perfectly portioned. You leave happily full of good food and good feelings.  A word to the wise, don't get too attached to any menu items here - you never know when it will be traded out for another delicious option.  Sadly, this was the fate of my beloved raviolis; replaced by an extremely flavorful spaghetti squash casserole.

Try as I might to avoid a food infatuation here, there is one dish on the True Food Kitchen menu that I am hopelessly addicted to and I am honestly not sure what I would do if they ever removed it from their appetizer list.  The Edamame Dumplings at True Food are unique, full of flavor and perfect in their simplicity.  Pureed edamame inside a chewy dumpling shell, floating in a soy sauce and truffle oil broth alongside whole edamame and daikon sprouts.  Everything is in balance with this plate - smooth, creamy edamame puree, salty sweet broth, and a dumpling shell that holds it all together for one delicious mouthful after another.  No dinner at True Food feels complete without an order of these.

If you are feeling sandwichy, True Food Kitchen has those too.  My favorite is Andy's Favorite TLT.  It has tempeh, lettuce, tomato, and avocado, with vegannaise, all on whole grain bread.  I strip this sandwich down to the basics and order it with just tempeh and avocado, with the vegannaise on the side.  The tempeh is made in house and has that salty bacon flavor we all love without the pig eating related guilt.  The avocado is always fresh and creamy and the whole grain bread is lightly toasted with just enough of a crunch to make your ears happy. The TLT comes with your choice of sweet potato hash or a kale salad or a bit of each.  Pair it with a cup of soup for the ultimate indulgence.

Desserts at True Food Kitchen are as distinctive as their entrée counterparts.  A new addition to the menu is Chia Seed Pudding.  Yes, those Chia seeds, though don’t worry, as far as I can tell I have not started growing a head-shaped shrub in my belly.  This dessert capitalizes on the recent phenomena of the chia seed.  When combined with pudding or any other moist base, the chia seeds expand and soften.  Combined with sliced bananas and roasted coconut shavings this dessert reaches superstar status.  I ate it two nights in a row – coming from across town just to experience it one more time.  Lighter then a rice pudding, with a nice, slightly chewy texture of tapioca it is the perfect ending to any meal.  Like many menu items, this one won’t last long, a victim to the change of seasons, but hopefully I will get a few more satisfying mouthfuls before it goes to the great menu in the sky.  Sadly that was the fate of two other mouthwateringly delicious dessert options – apple cobbler and pistachio pudding.  Each managed to satisfy my sweet tooth without being overpoweringly sugary.  This is mostly due to True Foods radical notion of letting the natural sweetness and flavor of a food come to the surface.  So, be sure to plan your meal carefully because this is definitely one place where you will want to leave room for dessert.

True Food Kitchen is what more restaurants should strive to be. All their ingredients are locally sourced and just about every dish on their menu is made from scratch for each patron. Their menu is varied enough to please even the pickiest of eaters, with options ranging from Goji Berry Granola for breakfast, organic tomato and roasted kale for lunch, lettuce wraps for an appetizer, and all natural steak tacos for dinner. Their portions are sized for one person. You can order an appetizer and an entree and not feel as though you will need to be rolled out the door.  If it is possible to have a Zen-like moment in a restaurant, grab your yoga mat and head down to your closest True Food Kitchen and just say Om....

No comments:

Post a Comment